September 14 - Hop, Skip, Jump, Hop

So it was a hop, skip, and a jump . . . and then another little hop (Portland to Denver to Dulles to Heathrow to Edinburgh) over a looooong 24 hours but we made it here to lovely, partly sunny 56 degree (15 degree celsius :)) Scotland.  Other than experiencing the chaotic, disorganized reality that is Heathrow Airport and losing my plastic bag of toiletries at the security check-in, all went fairly smoothly.   Thank you, thank you to my husband for using the miles he earned during work travel to secure first-class tickets for the trip.  The "pod" on the 747 where you can stretch out completely was unbelievably comfortable . . . just wish I had been tired enough to have taken advantage of it!  I was able to review my book on the history of Scotland and assorted guidebooks in relative peace during the 7-hour trip so I think I'm prepared!

View of the castle (right) from our room

Our friend Casey met us at the Edinburgh Airport (I think I've said this before but it really is lovley to be met at the airport by friends or family) and we shared a cab ride to our hotel.  The charming taxi-cab driver whose thick Scottish brogue I could barely make out, corrected us that driving on the left side of the road was the "proper" side after we had referred to it as the "wrong" side.  Our room at the Caledonia has a phenomenal view of Edinburgh Castle, St. Johns , and Prince Street Gardens from the bedroom and the bathroom. 

We settled in and cleaned up (there are heated towel racks!) and,while I was waiting for Rick and Casey, I had a lively conversation with the waiter from the bar about healthcare (US vs Scotland's), Scottish history, and the various bank notes used in Scotland.  Still trying to figure out the money thing.  Though they use the pound, each of Scotland's three (I think) banks issues their own individual bank notes.  So there are three different 10 pound notes, 20 pound notes, etc.  The coins are all the same.

View of Edinburgh and Firth of Forth

Once joined by Casey and Rick, Alison would be arriving later, we set out to hike up Arthurs Seat a large dolerite crag (hill, Edinburgh has seven of them) that dominates the southern backdrop of Edinburgh and serves as the highest point in the city at 852 feet.   It was a little taller and much windier than expected . . . and we were much more tired than we realized so we got up to a saddle where we took in a partial view of the city amidst the the gorse and heather.  

Scottish Parliament

 We headed back down to St. Margaret's Loch occupied by numerous swans and ducks and then started heading back, walking past the funky modern building housing the Scottish Parliament, resurrected in 1999 after a 292 year absence, and through the tourist trap but picturesque section that is known  as "the Royal Mile" and stumbled upon small pub, The Bow Pub, that is actually on the cover of my "Pub Walk" guidebook.

Charming Streets of Edinburgh

Though crowded with locals, they were friendly, welcoming, and two of the more senior patrons, along with the delightful bartender from Austin, Texas, were delighted to educate us on the merits of single malt whiskey.  Rick, Casey, and I shared in what I would call a flight of single malts, one from the lowlands, one from Speyside (NE Scotland) and one from the highlands.  Rick preferred the Speyside and Casey and I both enjoyed the highlands.  One of the gentlemen encouraged us to try one from the island of Islay called, Bowman, I believe.  It is described as smokey, Rick called it charcoal and I would describe it as glue.  Nonetheless it was good to get the comparison and I thanked the patron for his recommendation.  One of the older gentlemen who had clearly been imbibing for quite some time, started to bend Rick's ear providing him numerous though relatively incoherent recommendations for local music and other pubs.  We had to make our departure to meet Alison at the hotel, but before leaving one of the gentlemen asked for a kiss, which I gladly bestowed on both.  A lovely, pub experience for all!

Alison, me, and dinner

Dinner

Alison arrived, bubbly and full of energy.  We were all fairly hungry and our interest was picqued by the Rutland Restaurant which had a cow statue showing the various cuts of meat in front of the establishment as well as another partial cow statue position coming out of the second floor of the restaurant.  Though very busy (it was a Friday night), they were able to accommodate us in the bar and though they normally didn't serve meals there, Alison charmed them into doing so.  She had lamb, the boys had rib-eyes, and I had gnochhi in a smokey tomato sauce, all accompanied by a nice Argentinian malbec.  Good friends, good food, good wine, good weather, good ambience, GREAT first day.