September 24 - Goodbye to Skye, on Our Way to Ft. William

Sheep observing Rick observing sunrise

Mountain Ash and Heather at the Quiraing

Though sunrise looked promising when we rose at 6:00 this morning to make one last attempt to catch good light at the Quiraing, the warm light and colorful skies we had hoped for did not materialize.  However, drinking coffee from a flask prepared by Marie, while sitting in a field of heather next to a little grotto with the sheep calling to each other on the hillside is not a bad way to start the day.  

One last shot of a Scottish Blackface Sheep

We stayed for a couple of hours and then headed back to  Spoons for one final breakfast.  Rick had his regular and me poached eggs and sausage and then we packed up and said goodbye to our home away from home for four nights.  Staying at the Spoons has been one of the highlights of our trip.  I can't think of time when I've been looked after better during my travels.  I hope that we cross paths with them again someday.

On the Drive to Armadale

We headed south to Armadale on the Isle of Skye's southernmost peninsula, Sleat, where we caught the ferry to the Town of Malaig on the mainland.  Though the reservations got a little messed up, for some reason they had Rick's name down as Mr. Thump, the reservation numbers matched, so the clerk opted to accept us a the Thumps and issued our tickets. 

It seems like we are leaving at an opportune time as rain is moving in today.   Cannot believe how fortunate we have been with this weather.  Skye's climate and people have been very hospitable and have treated us well.  I hope we return, but even if we don't, we have many fond memories of our time here.  And thank you to my wonderful husband for taking the initiative to plan this trip to Skye, including finding the delightful B&B, and researching the hikes and all of the scenic locations to visit.  It has been the experience of a lifetime.

Coming into the Hamlet of Malaig

It was a 45-minute ferry ride to Malaig and then a quick hour drive to Fort William.  Fort William is the second largest town in the Highlands; Inverness is the largest.  Fort William is known to be the gateway to Glen Coe, the beautiful valley which we visited on our way out to Skye, and is also near Ben Nevis, the highest mountain on the British Isles at 4, 409 feet.   It appears that Ft. William's primary economic generator is tourism, appealing to hikers scenic drivers such as ourselves.

The Grange B&B

We arrived at our B&B, the Grange, at around 4:30.  It is quite a stately and elegant place.  We parked our car next to the cars of the other three guessts, two Audi sports cars and a B&W, and I began to feel a little out of my element.  We walked passed the formal gardens to enter the B&B and was greeted by Joan who was very pleasant, despite the fact that we interrupted tea time. 

Teatime is something that has been offered everywhere we have gone at roughly 4:00 pm.  We have always been out and about or we are never dressed properly (tea time is a rather formal affair), so we have never partaken of this cultural event.  But Rick thinks it will be amusing to see me try to be elegant and demure in my hiking boots and rain pants, balancing tea in one hand and biscuit in another and talk of small pleasant things and to not do or say anything offensive.  Depending on tomorrow's schedule, we just might give it a shot.

Joan showed us to our room, beautifully decorated in a "non-fussy" (Rick's term - means no doilies or finged lamps) way with rather modern furniture and lovely, but breakable, items throughout.  If rooms were given a risk rating for destruction by your truly, this room would rank high at a level 5. I hope we get away with not too much damage.

From the Grog and Gruel

After settling in, and, discovering that I failed to return the Spoons room key to Marie (we'll "pop it in the post" tomorrow) we went out to investigate the Town of Fort William and get some Indian food for dinner.  The dinner was unremarkable, but we visited a whiskey store nearby to find some of Rick's preferred whiskey (Bahlvenie 12-yr doublewood - yes folks we have cultivated another whiskey drinker), and met a very helpful clerk who identified other whiskies that might appeal to our tastebuds.
When then went to a local pub, the Grog and Gruel, where they had a selection of over 70 whiskies.  Rick purchased a dram of his Balvenie, and I tried one made by Springbank Distillers located on the mainland in Campbelltown in southwestern Scotland.  I seem to be developing a liking for the peaty whiskies, once I've added a few drops of water and warmed it up a bit.

The endangered cocktail glass

We then wandered back to the B&B.  While walking on the main street we saw an electronic highway sign announcing rains and heavy winds for Tuesday's weather forecast.  Well, we've been lucky with the weather for just about our entire vacation so we can accept a day of wind and rain.  Might make for some dramatic pictures.  Back in the room, I made it to bed without any destructive incident though I did trip twice on the step leading into the bath room and I almost broke the cocktail glass :-)